Fall is a great time to visit Tofino before the storms

The hike up to the top of the Cox Bay Beach lookout is a steep and muddy bushwalking slog. But the reward is a  panoramic view of Tofino’s pearl string of beaches and the swelling waves that pummel wetsuit clad surfers. 

This summer, Tofino’s beaches were even more packed than usual as wildfires and intense heatwaves ravaged much of the B.C. interior, redirecting many vacationers west toward Vancouver Island’s cool sea breezes. Come winter, storm watchers will return to once again fill up this resort town’s hotels and restaurants. Until then, Tofino slips into a late fall lull, which makes it the perfect time to visit.  

The water is still warm from the summer sun, the winds change direction to offshore (southeast) for optimal wave shape, and the first mighty, frothy ten-foot plus swells appear. Pro surfers also arrive to compete in events like the Queen of the Peak, the Women’s Canadian Surf Championships, that transform Tofino’s top beaches into front row seats.  

Add popular year-round activities like whale watching, kayaking, cycling and hiking, along with superb dining at some of the west coast’s most celebrated and innovative restaurants, and a fall escape to Tofino adds up to a lot of fresh-air fun.  

Funky stays  

The brash and retro Hotel Zed is an affordable accommodation option located on the Pacific Rim Highway a few kilometres south of Tofino and just a ten-minute walk from Chesterman Beach. It opened in late 2019 on four acres of old-growth rainforest with private access to the Tofino Mudflats, home to a rich array of shorebirds and waterfowl species.  

The Zed brand promises “ridiculously fun, unpretentious hotels that look damn good on your Instagram.” Entering the lobby feels like stepping onto the set of  That ‘70s Show , with bold vintage colour palettes, a green shag rug in the huge sunken living room and teardrop fireplaces hanging from the ceiling.